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About Amsterdam: History & Landscape

If you’re considering a trip to Amsterdam and want to know more about the city beforehand, this blog post dives into the landscape, history, and culture of the Netherlands and its capital city Amsterdam. Additionally, this article provides a district and neighborhood map to help guide your travels.

Illustration of the City of Amsterdam

Article Outline:


The Netherlands Landscape: An Overview

Located in the Northwest of Europe between Belgium and Germany on the North Sea, the Netherlands means "low-lying country." Amsterdam is also frequently referred to as Holland, which comes from the word "Houtland" and translates to "wooden land." (Note that the government of the Netherlands decided to officially drop the name Holland in January 2020 in a rebranding attempt to represent the entirety of the country's twelve provinces.)


The country mostly has a flat terrain, and approximately half of the land is below sea level or less than one meter above sea level; it has thus suffered from periodic flooding throughout history. According to the Anglosaxon Chronicle of 1099, a North Sea surge resulted in 100,000 deaths in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Additionally, on December 14, 1287, the Netherlands suffered from one of the world's largest floods. On St. Lucia Day (Sint-Luciavloed), dikes (walls or barriers to prevent flooding) failed because of a heavy storm in the North Sea that resulted in the flooding of the former Zuiderzee (now Lake IJssel), which resulted in a death toll between 50,000–80,000 (a significant percentage of the population at the time). Furthermore, the flood created a new bay. It destroyed the farmland in the area previously, resulting in Amsterdam becoming a port city because of its new direct access to the sea.


Without human intervention, most of the country would be inhabitable. For thousands of years, residents of the region have worked to keep the water at bay. Since the 14th century, the Netherlands has utilized land reclamation to create new land from the sea. For example, the Zuiderzee Works (which started in 1918) is considered a modern wonder and has successfully barred the sea for over 50 years. The project uses dams, dikes, land reclamation, and water drainage work to protect the Netherlands from the effects of the sea, help to improve food supply by creating new agricultural land, and to improve water management. In 1932, the 32-mile Afsluitdijk (a major dam and causeway) was created to cut off the Zuiderzee from the North Sea to reclaim shallow wetlands behind the dam.

"God created the world, but the Dutch created the Netherlands."
Map of the four polders near Amsterdam in The Netherlands

Four polders created in Lake Ijssel in the twentieth century increased the land of the Netherlands by about 626 square miles. A fifth polder, Markerwaard, has been under construction since late 2012. The four polders are as follows:


Wieringermeerpolder: the first polder

  • Located in the province of Noord-Holland (North Holland)

  • Creation started in early 1927 and was fully drained on August 31, 1930

  • Underwent reconstruction after damage during the Second World War

  • Was drained again in 1945

Noordoostpolder: the second polder

  • Located in the Flevoland province in central Netherlands

  • Boasts beautiful tulip fields

  • Construction began in 1936 and was sufficiently drained in late 1942

  • Contains two former islands: Urk and Shokland

  • Was used by the Dutch Underground resistance during World War II

  • Became known as the Dutch Hiding Paradise for people in hiding during WWII

Oostelijk Flevoland: the third polder

  • Located in the East of the province of Flevoland

  • Construction began in early 1950; the dike was closed on September 13, 1956, and drained on June 29, 1957

Zuidelijk Flevoland: the fourth polder

  • Located in the South of the province of Flevoland

  • Surrounded by water on three sides

  • Construction began in early 1959, was dammed on October 25, 1967, and was drained on May 29, 1968

The Netherlands Climate

According to the Köppen climate classification system, the Netherlands has a moderate maritime climate (type Cfb). This type of climate has cold winters and cool to mild summers, with rainfall moderate and frequent throughout the year.


The weather in the Netherlands can be unpredictable due to its geographic location and flat topography; the morning could be warm and sunny, but clouds and rain showers may follow. The average annual percentage of humidity is about 83%. It’s also quite windy, especially near the coast.


A photo of a street along a canal in Amsterdam, the Netherlands

Amsterdam: A Brief History

According to some, adventurers on hollowed-out logs floated down the Amstel River and dug out dams and dikes in the swamps and marsh around the river to create a fishing village. Though there is some prior evidence of inhabitants in this area, such as shards of pottery from the Bell Beaker culture (2200–2000 BC), the wet peatland was largely inhabitable. The peat area started to grow around 5500 BC, but the first evidence of cultivators moving into the peat area wasn't until around the year 1000.


In 1113, Archbishop Frederick of Hamburg-Bremen invited a group of Dutch inhabitants to reclaim and cultivate peat areas along the mouth of the Weser and Elbe rivers. The settlers were given individual freedom to the land they reclaimed in the Charta of 1113 contract, as well as legal liberty. Settlers reclaimed peat areas by digging ditches, which gave rise to parcels of land big enough for agriculture and living. In 1170, the All Saints' Flood gave Amsterdam direct access to the sea after the North Sea flooded Lake Flevo. A dam built at the Amstel river in 1270 formed a connection between the settlements on both sides.


The first known record of the city name is from a "Gift Letter" documented on October 27, 1275, to "Amestelledamme." Fishers, merchants, and sailors received the freedom of toll from Count Floris V with these documents. As a result, "Amsterdammers" could travel freely without paying tolls at bridges, locks, and dams. Amsterdam gained city rights around 1300.


In the 12th and 13th centuries, the city constructed many walls and moats for fortification. Around the time Amsterdam was granted city rights, an earthen wall was built behind a city center dike (Nieuwendijk). In 1340, the city had new walls and a moat constructed along the western and eastern sides of the Amstel river. New walls and moats were built in 1385, as well as three gates: Sint Olofspoort, Haarlemmerpoort, and Bindwijkerpoort. Another city expansion in 1425 resulted in another moat construction. And in 1481, Emperor Maximilian I ordered the building of stone walls around the city to protect it against the Duchy of Guelders and the Bishopric of Utrecht. The project included five city gates and took thirteen years to complete.


The city continued to expand rapidly in the 15th and 16th centuries. In 1585, new earthen walls were created beyond the existing stone walls, and the city grew past the Singel canal. Singel, the closest to the city center in the canal ring, served as a moat from 1480–1585. The canal ring, known as Grachtengordel, was developed to drain and reclaim land for new development. Besides Singel, the canal ring includes Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht; construction started on the latter three in 1612.


The 17th century was known as Amsterdam's Golden Age. Houses filled the area between the old and new walls due to continued expansion within a few years. During this time, the Netherlands was the staple market of the world and a leader in finance and diamonds. In 1602, the Amsterdam Stock Exchange and the Dutch East India Company were founded. The Bank of Amsterdam was founded in 1609, and the Dutch West India Company was founded in 1621.


An ambitious fortification project started in 1657 to protect the city's expansion. It took about six years to complete and resulted in 26 new bastions, each of which were topped with windmills. Finally, in the mid-1660s, Amsterdam reached its optimum population of about 200,000 and held its position until about 1700. Moreover, many people were drawn to Amsterdam after the Netherlands' Eighty Year War with Spain (from 1568–1648) due to its relative religious tolerance.


From 1663–1666, a bubonic plague outbreak resulted in more than 10% of the population dying, and at the time, some people assumed the plague outbreak was from digging the canals. The Dutch Golden Age lasted until 1672 after costly conflicts, such as the Fourth Franco-Dutch War and the War of Spanish Succession, fueled economic decline.


In 1814, Amsterdam became the capital of the Netherlands, and the city continued to develop despite the end of the Dutch Golden Age. Amsterdam's economy stagnated in the early 19th century, but the city began to revive late in the century due to the Industrial Revolution. It was during this time that the Rijksmuseum opened (1885), as well as the Centraal Station (1889). Dutch Post-Impressionist painter Vincent Van Gogh also lived during this time.


In the years following, Amsterdam continued to protect itself through fortification. In 1787, defensive lines were constructed around the city, and between 1880 and 1914, a 135-kilometer ring of fortifications called the Defence Line of Amsterdam was constructed, complete with 46 forts. The Defence Line became redundant after World War II, but remnants of the Defence Line, such as its 46 forts, are still standing and have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996.


The Netherlands stayed neutral during World War I, though some riots occurred due to food shortages (such as the 1917 Potato Riots). After the war, the city continued to develop. Better homes were developed for the working class, the public library opened, and the population continued to grow. Amsterdam hosted the Summer Olympics in 1928.


The Netherlands attempted to stay neutral during World War II, but German occupation began in 1940. Most of the Jewish population was deported, and over 100,000 Dutch Jews were sent to extermination camps. German occupation ended in 1945. After World War II, the city began reconstruction, and many new suburbs were built around Amsterdam.


In the 1960s and 1970s, a cultural revolution and the rejection of traditional mores resulted in social changes.


Amsterdam Today

As of 2022, Amsterdam is home to about 1.1 million people. The city has seven main boroughs or districts: Westpoort, Nieu-West, West, Zuid, Centrum, Oost, Noord, and Zuidoost. Each district is divided into neighborhoods. The city currently has 26 neighborhoods, each with their own character. For example, De Pijp is a popular city within the District of Zuid.


A map of Amsterdam's seven districts and popular neighborhoods

Today, it’s known as an open, tolerant city. It is quite diverse, one of the most in Europe, with 180 different nationalities. The city supports women’s rights and LGBTI rights, and has anti-discriminatory measures. Prostitution was legalized in 2000, giving sex workers more autonomy in their profession and improving their labor conditions. Additionally, in an attempt to combat drug-related crime and nuisance, the Dutch government introduced toleration rules on cannabis.


But while Amsterdam is booming, the city is becoming unaffordable and its structures need repairs. The housing market is in high demand and is one of Europe’s least affordable cities for housing. Additionally, many of the city’s 1,600 bridges and 200 kilometers of canals need checking and possibly replacing. Some have suggested that Amsterdam will look like a construction site over the next two decades as the city combats sinkholes and collapsing canal walls.


Amsterdam is one of the most popular cities to visit in the world and receives about 8.84 million tourists per year. In recent years, the city has attempted to combat overtourism with technology. Instead of unwelcoming guests, the city is taking a different approach by trying to draw tourists to outlying districts. For example, the Iamsterdam sign (once a popular spot for Instagram photos) moved from the central area and now travels around to outlying districts. The city is also attempting to use technology to change how, when, and where tourists visit destinations—especially the most popular ones that create congestion


If you're thinking about heading to Amsterdam, consider spending some time in some of the outlying districts. Also, consider shopping small. There are plenty of small businesses and street markets in Amsterdam to find local goods. For example, you can visit the Negen Straatjes any day during regular business hours, Albert Cuyp Market during normal business hours from Monday through Saturday, or the Lindengracht Markt on Saturdays.


Visit the Iamsterdam page for a list of popular shopping areas. Additionally, Booking.com has a list of LGBTQ+ businesses to support in Amsterdam, and Trippin has a list of black-owned companies.


Groeten,

"Elyse" signature


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