Interested in learning more about the Big Island? This article dives into the origins of Hawaii and the Big Island from its landscape to its earliest settlers. Learn about Big Island's volcanoes, its climate, the early Polynesians who settled there, and its changing economy.
If you're thinking about taking a trip to the Big Island, the Volcano Map and Climate Map (below) will help prepare you for your upcoming journey.
Article Outline
Big Island Overview
The Hawaiian Islands are volcanic in origin. There are eight major islands, though the state officially recognizes 137 islands (the others are uninhabited). Hawaii Island, or the "Big Island," is the youngest of the islands at around 500,000 years old. However, the island is still growing due to its four active volcanoes: Mauna Loa, Kīlauea, Hualālai, and the underwater Lōʻihi.
Mauna Loa is the largest active volcano on the planet, according to USGS. Mauna Loa (meaning "Long Mountain") covers more than half of the Big Island and last erupted in 1984.
Kīlauea, though the youngest, is the most active on the island and last erupted in 2018.
Hualālai is the third most active volcano. Though its last eruption was around 1800, it will likely erupt again.
Lōʻihi, located off the Southeast coast, is quite active but still underwater. While scientists aren't exactly sure when it will breach the surface, some estimate it will take roughly 200,000 years. After that, it will likely form another Hawaiian island.
In addition to the above four volcanoes, there is also the dormant Mauna Kea and the now-extinct Kohala. The latter is the oldest volcano on the island; it emerged from the surface about 500,000 years ago and last erupted more than 65,000 years ago. Finally, the tallest volcano on Hawaii Island is Mauna Kea (meaning "White Mountain"), which last erupted between 4,500 and 6,000 years ago and could erupt again. Its highest elevation is 13,796 feet on its snowcapped peaks. Measured from base to apex, it is the world's tallest mountain, as it is 32,696 feet from its base in the Pacific Ocean to its summit.
The Big Island has an area a little over 4,000 miles and is bigger than all the other islands combined. The two largest cities on Big Island are Hilo and Kailua-Kona, which each have their own airports. Hilo is the largest of the two cities, is the capital, and is located on the east coast—or the "wet side" of the island. Kailua-Kona is on the west side, often referred to as just "Kona," and is located on the "dry side" of the island. This is the same for most of the Hawaiian Islands (dry versus wet side), which is why you'll often see more of the larger hotels and resorts on the west side of the Hawaiian Islands.
Big Island has many different climate zones. Defined by the Köppen Climate Classification System, the island has 10 out of the 14 climate zones broken into four major categories: Tropical, Arid and Semi-Arid, Temperate, and Polar. Thus, you can visit a tropical forest and a desert all on the same day. As you can see on the map above, the Arid and Semi-Arid climates Western from South Kona up to the Hawi area. Generally, as you move farther East, you get into a more Continuously Wet environment. However, in the center of the island, you'll experience a drier climate (both warm and cold) in the mountainous region. If you visit the top of Mauna Kea, you'll experience a Polar environment.
The Big Island also has a diverse range of beaches. Not only are there golden and white sand beaches, but Big Island is also home to one of the four only green sand beaches in the world and has a handful of black sand beaches as well. The most popular beaches are towards the South (in the Humid Tropical Climate) and the West (in the Arid & Semi-Arid Climates).
Earliest Settlers in Hawaii
The first known humans on the Island were Polynesians. They visited on dugout canoes stabilized by outriggers about 1,600 years ago or around 400 AD. The first settlers likely set out from "Hawaiki" (the mythological home to Polynesians, and is believed to be the Marquesas Islands). These early settlers sailed toward other Pacific Islands, such as Easter Island, the Society Islands, Cook Islands, Hawaii, and later New Zealand.
Nevertheless, according to historian Philippa Mein Smith in the book A Concise History of New Zealand, Anthropologists have "advanced a radical new model for the settlement of East Polynesia which suggests that this oceanic dispersal was far more rapid and recent than previously understood." These recent studies, using radiocarbon dating, have demonstrated that the Pacific Islands' initial human colonization may have happened more recently and rapidly in two phases from 1025 to 1120 AD.
In Hawaiian mythology, there were other settlers in Hawaii when the Polynesians arrived (known as the "Menehune" people). Still, Hawaiian historians believe civilization did not begin on the islands until about 1,100 to 1,300 AD with the arrival of the Polynesians, who implemented new religions and social structures as they traveled back and forth between many Pacific Islands. However, according to HawaiianHistory.org, "After 1300, long distance voyaging ceased, and Hawaiian culture and society continued to develop along its unique path." The Hawaiian population increased rapidly during this time, and large public work projects were implemented.
A New Era
British explorer Captain James Cook arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1778; he and his crew were the first known Westerners to arrive. After a brief departure from Big Island, Cook returned to Kealakekua Bay in 1779 during Makahiki, a Hawaiian harvest festival. His return was marked with coincidences of the Polynesian god Lono. While no one knows for sure why the Hawaiians originally accepted Cook and his crew, there has been some suggestions. According to cultural anthropologist Marshall Sahlins, the coincidences of Cook's arrival led some Hawaiians to treat Cook as an incarnation of Lono in an effort "to cope with the anomalies of Cook's visit" and thus "incorporat[ed] him into their cultural order."
However, after a series of disputes, attempted theft, the attempted kidnapping of King Kalaniʻōpuʻu, and a skirmish, Cook was killed. Supposedly, the Hawaiians retained Cook's body out of their high esteem, and they prepared funeral rites that were reserved for chiefs and elders. Today, there is a monument dedicated to Cook near Kealakekua Bay in the city of Captain Cook.
Immigration to the Hawaiian Islands began soon after Cook's arrival from Westerners. Up until 1795, the islands were independent. Then in 1795, Kamehameha the Great (of Big Island) conquered O'ahu, Maui, Moloka'i, and Lānaʻi using the novelty of Western technology. The Hawaiian Kingdom was ruled by two significant dynasties from 1795-1893: the House of Kamehameha and the House of Kalākaua. Kamehameha's grandsons continued to lead the Kingdom after his passing. Kamehameha III codified Hawaiian traditions and laws learned by Westerners, created a constitution in 1840, and also created a system for private ownership of land (Mahele) for the first time in 1848.
With private land ownership and entrepreneurship came economic and labor issues. Additionally, with Hawaii's increased sugar cane production, the economy became increasingly tied to the United States and dependent upon foreign exports. On January 17, 1893, a group of disgruntled American businessmen staged a coup against Queen Lili'uokalani (Hawaii's last Queen) due to her "persistence in adopting a new constitution" and increased tariffs on sugar. While she withdrew from the throne to avoid bloodshed, she did not immediately abdicate. She had initially hoped that President Cleveland would help with the situation.
In 1894, Samuel Dole sent a delegate to Washington to seek annexation. President Cleveland initially opposed annexation and attempted to restore the Queen, but the new provisional government of the American businessmen refused to step down. By 1898, the new Republic of Hawaii was formed. In 1900, Hawaii became a territory of the United States, and Dole became the first governor. Hawaii became the 50th state on August 21, 1959, after a referendum was passed in June with 94.3% in favor of statehood.
Big Island Today
While Hawaii Island is the largest island, it only has about 14% of the Hawaiian population, or approximately 200,629 residents, according to the 2019 U.S. Census. In addition, most of the island is uninhabited by humans, and parts are still recovering from the 2018 volcanic eruptions.
When Hawaii changed from a Kingdom, to a territory, then to a state, the dominant industries changed. Initially, the agricultural sector (such as sugar cane and pineapple) dominated the economy. However, by the 1960s, the increase of commercial flights led to a rise in visitors to the islands and overtook the sugar cane and pineapple industries (by revenue).
Today, the Hawaiian Islands still rely heavily on the tourism industry economically. However, the Islands have been experiencing higher-than-normal unemployment rates since the outbreak of the Covid-19 pandemic. The decrease in visitors and Covid-19 restrictions on businesses has created shockwaves in Hawaii's $18 billion tourism industry. Additionally, it is not uncommon for islanders to have multiple jobs, and half of Hawaii barely gets by.
The complex issues surrounding Big Island today, such as the concern over the external economic forces on Hawaii, poverty, native rights, and land ownership, require a separate investigation altogether. And if you're planning a trip to Hawaii, make sure to visit the State of Hawaii Covid-19 site for up-to-date information.
If you're thinking about taking a trip to Big Island (or any Hawaiian Island), support local businesses and people when possible. You can visit Shop Small Hawaii for a list of over 350 Hawaiian small businesses.
Additionally, the Kanaka Economic Development Alliance project is attempting to empower the Native Hawaiian Community through business; you can click here to see their current list of Native Hawaiian owned businesses.
Aloha,
