Discover the magic of Hawaii's Big Island in just two days with this immersive travel diary. Dive into local cuisine, bask on stunning beaches, explore historical landmarks, and gaze at the stars. This detailed account of a whirlwind Big Island adventure is your key to unlocking an unforgettable Hawaiian experience.
Aloha, friends! In this post, I recount my two-day exploration of the Big Island in Hawaii that's sure to ignite your wanderlust! Besides taking time to destress from the grind of everyday life, this trip was all about diving deep into Hawaii's culture, marveling at the breathtaking landscapes, and savoring the delicious local cuisine. I've crafted this travel diary to share the highlights of my journey, showcasing the unique experiences and attractions that make the Big Island so special. Let's begin!
Day 1: Arrival (Half Day on Big Island)
After landing at the Kona International Airport airport around midday on a Friday, my partner Björn and I picked up our rental car at Hertz and headed straight to our hotel, the PACIFIC 19. This newly opened hotel, located in the heart of Kona village, offers a modern and comfortable stay at a reasonable price. It's a nice base for exploring the Big Island and currently averages only $209 a night.
Once settled in, we headed out to explore the local area. Our first stop was Umekes Fish Market Bar & Grill, a popular spot known for its fresh ahi poke bowls (the name Umeke comes from the Hawaiian word for "bowl"). The poke, Bulleh Fries, and the warm sun were the perfect welcome to the Big Island.
As the afternoon turned into evening, we went to Wawaloli Beach Park. This hidden gem, tucked away from the main tourist areas and just south of the airport, offers a peaceful retreat with its black lava rocks and tide pools.
Our next stop was Kohanaiki Beach Park, also known as Pine Trees Beach. This park is a relatively new addition, established in 2013, but it carries a rich history. Kohanaiki was once a thriving community that harvested fish from the sea and cultivated crops on the uplands. Today, you can see evidence of this ancient community, from a donkey corral and canoe house to fish ponds and petroglyphs. The park is home to over 200 anchialine ponds and two ancient trails, including home sites that date back to AD 1020. It's a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the Big Island.
One of the highlights of Kohanaiki is the Aunty Elizabeth Memorial. Aunty Elizabeth was a beloved local figure known for her warm spirit and dedication to preserving Hawaiian culture. Her dedication to preserving and cultivating this traditional art form led to her being named a Living Treasure of Hawai'i. The memorial is a beautiful tribute to her, nestled among the local plants she loved. It's a peaceful spot that invites reflection and connection with the island's past.
If you love learning about different cultures (like me!), be sure to also stop at the Kohanaiki Cultural Learning Center in the same area. It's an educational spot with the mission to perpetuate the Hawaiian culture.
We ended the day with a quick trip to Safeway to stock up on water, locally grown pineapple and papaya, and Hawaiian drinks before returning to our hotel for a well-deserved rest.
Day 2: From Historical Landmarks to Star Gazing (Full Day)
Day two began with a morning stroll around the hotel, taking in the early morning tranquility of the island. We then drove to Island Vintage Coffee at the Kings' Shops in Waikoloa Village to taste their famous Kona coffee and açaí bowls. I always joke that I'm an "Island Vintage stan" because I never miss stopping by at least once when I visit. They also have locations on O'ahu and Maui.
After breakfast, we explored Waikoloa Village, a charming community nestled among ancient lava fields. With its upscale resorts and golf courses, the village offered a glimpse into the island's luxury tourism scene. We spent the morning wandering around the village, enjoying the picturesque views and vibrant local culture.
The afternoon was filled with historical and natural wonders. First, we visited the King Kamehameha statue in Kapa'au, a towering bronze figure honoring the conqueror and first ruler of the Kingdom of Hawaii. If you're headed up north, especially if you plan on visiting one of the lookouts, it's worth stopping through this small town and seeing the statue.
Next, we headed to the Pololū Valley lookout, a popular spot offering panoramic views of the valley and the coastline. The name Pololū comes from the Hawaiian word 'long spear.' The lookout, perched high above the valley, provided a breathtaking view of the dramatic cliffs, black sand beach, and the vast Pacific Ocean. The Pololū valley is the northernmost of the seven valleys that carve into the oldest of the five volcanoes that make up Big Island, the Kohala volcano.
The seven valleys of Kohala are as follows:
· Honokeʻa
· Honokāne Iki
· Honokāne Nui
· Honopue
· Pololū Valley
· Waimanu Valley
· Waipi’o Valley
The now-extinct volcano is estimated to be about a million years old, and last erupted roughly 120,000 years ago. You might see wild horses grazing on the hillside if you're lucky. It's one of the most spectacular views on the Big Island.
Pololū Valley Viewing Tip There's free parking here for 10-15 minutes if you want to see the view and don't feel like hiking the Pololū Historic Trail.
The Pololū Hiking Information
Though free, there's limited parking here, so arrive early. The hike, sometimes called the Awini trail, is only 0.6 miles long and takes 20-30 minutes on average. Still, it is pretty steep and requires caution when venturing down to the valley. Be especially careful if the trail is wet, as it's made up of rocks and dirt.
After a day of exploration, we quickly stopped at Foodland in Waimea to pick up some fresh poke and local sweets. Don't let the idea of grocery store poke scare you; the store actually has great poke at a reasonable price (in fact, one of the restaurants we visited on O'ahu boasted about having Foodland poke). The supermarket's wide variety of local products was a food lover's paradise. I recommend trying the lilikoi butter mochi dessert (image a rice ball and a shortbread cookie had a baby)—it was so good!
Next, we took our grocery store finds to Kukio beach to enjoy the sun and snorkel at sundown.
The highlight of my day was the evening trip to Mauna Kea. Known as one of the best places in the world for stargazing, the experience was nothing short of magical. How many stars you can see on top of the mountain is unbelievable. (Also, if anyone knows what the red lines are in the middle photo below, please let me know!)
If you visit, remember to bundle up! It gets frigid on top of the mountain. I wore two pairs of bands, a sweatshirt, and a jacket—and I was still cold. And make sure to fill up on gas before you head to the mountain. No gas station is open late at night in the middle of the island. Thankfully, we returned to the hotel at 1:15 AM with a few gallons of gas to spare.
Day 3: Farewell to Big Island (Half Day)
The final day on the Big Island started with a delicious breakfast at Kona Heaven Coffee. I opted for a Hawaiian Monster coffee and an egg croissant, a hearty breakfast to fuel my day of exploration. The Hawaiian Monster is a unique blend of milk, blue curaçao, and Kona coffee—unusual, but not bad! It's been a staple at the coffee shop for over ten years.
After breakfast, we briefly visited Kekaha Kai State Park before heading back to Kukio Beach for some snorkeling (Kekaha Kai was a little too busy for our liking on this particular day). Kukio Beach, located at the Four Seasons Resort, can be accessed by asking security for entrance (all Hawaiian beaches are free for public use by law). Once you get past the gate, it's just a short drive down to the beach. The white sand beach offers mostly clear waters, and you can usually see a fair amount of fish when snorkeling. And thanks to the Four Seasons, there's a restroom and warm showers at the entrance.
After returning the rental car at about 2 PM, we headed to the airport, marking the end of our memorable 2-day adventure on the Big Island. We departed the Kona airport at 3 PM via Hawaiian Airlines to O'ahu—a short, 25-minute ride. If you leave from Kona, sit on the plane's right side. You can see the islands on your short ride if the weather is clear.
Saying Goodbye
My two-day trip to the Big Island was a testament to the island's diverse offerings. From fresh poke to the awe-inspiring night sky at Mauna Kea, every moment was a unique experience. Only have a couple of days to spend on the Big Island, and want to make sure you hit all the big destinations? No worries, I've got you covered! Watch for my next post, where I'll share a handy guide tailored just for quick visits to this paradise. It's perfect for those planning to island-hop their way through Hawaii. And don't forget to check out some other gems in my Big Island series, "7 Days on Big Island: A Complete Travel Guide" and "About Big Island: History & Landscape."
Have you been to Big Island and have a memorable experience to share? Leave a comment below or connect with me on Instagram; I'd love to hear about your Big Island experience!
Aloha,
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